After the whirlwind of Venice, we based ourselves in Modena for a few days, a central hub amidst the magic of Parmigiano Reggiano, prosciutto, and balsamic vinegar – a paradise for any food lover in a region renowned for its food traditions. Modena is situated in Emilia-Romagna, also known as the food valley, which is home to an impressive array of DOP and IGP food products.
Modena’s old town center is a wonderful place to relax and escape the major city crowds. The town, of course, boasts the famous Michelin starred, Osteria Francescana restaurant, alongside numerous other charming trattorias, osterias, and other eateries. Knowing we had several food-filled days ahead, we opted for lighter dinners after enjoying lunches out. One of our favorite activities was simply strolling the streets, lined with beautiful terracotta buildings and graceful porticos. We savored daily aperitivos near Piazza Roma, admiring the architectural beauty of the Palazzo Ducale and the Chiesa di San Giorgio. Devoured gelato in the stunning Piazza Grande and marveled at the magnificent UNESCO-listed 12th-century cathedral.
Modena is very walkable – easy to navigate with an authentic charm to it. We felt it offered a very local experience. Beyond the culinary delights, the town boasts several balsamic shops which offer tastings, a few interesting museums, and charming stores with local products. A must-visit is the Mercato Storico Albinelli, a treasure trove of seasonal fresh produce, local delicacies and specialties.
Modena’s other claim to fame is that of being the car capital of Italy! Home to the headquarters of Lamborghini, Maserati, Ferrari, De Tomaso, and Pagani it is easy to see why. Even with my limited car knowledge, the Ferrari Museum was awe-inspiring. The story of Enzo Ferrari, a young man who dared to chase his dream and build an automotive empire, was truly moving. The museum serves as another reminder of Modena and Italy’s dedication to craftsmanship.
The true star of Modena is, of course, the vinegar! Our balsamic vinegar pilgrimage led us to the beautiful, family-ownedGambigliani Zoccoli Estate (established in 1732). Here, we learned about the fascinating world of balsamic vinegar production: the careful grape selection, the meticulous aging process, and the unique role of local yeasts and microbes in achieving the high standards required for D.O.P. Balsamic vinegar. The aging traditionally happens in the attics of old farmhouses with a new line of vinegar reportedly started to celebrate the birth of a child (traditionally for daughters). The vinegar is then aged for anything between 12 and 25 years. This experience will forever change your perception of balsamic vinegar! The end product, after 12 to 25 years of fermentation, is a silky smooth, sweet and slightly tart syrup. This immersive experience culminated in an exceptional lunch showcasing local foods. A table groaned with different types of fresh ricotta cheese, aged Parmigiano Reggiano,local breads and meats, all perfectly selected to complement the estate’s prized balsamic vinegar. Our main course was a classic Parmesan risotto, lightly flavored with onions and finished with a perfect drop or two of 25-year-old vinegar. Our meal ended with a traditional family dish: ricotta cake, served alongside some homemade nocino, a walnut liqueur.
For our next day out we used a Parma based tour company, ParmaLook, an excellent tour company specializing in regional food tours in the area surrounding Parma. We did the Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto tour which was fantastic. I have done a fair amount of food tours in my time and this was definitely one of my favorites! We had an extremely knowledgeable guide, a nice small group experience and we learnt so much!
Our first stop was a small scale organic Parmigiano Reggiano producer, Borgo del Gazzano. We arrived early enough to see firsthand the production process of these iconic cheese wheels within a traditional small-scale facility. The dedication and skill of the cheesemakers were evident in every step. Did you know it takes 550 liters of milk to make one round of Parmigiano Reggiano? One of my favorite memories of the day? Standing amidst a roomful of aging Parmigiano wheels!
After a drive through the farming areas on the outskirts of Parma, passing vineyards, pastures, and a beautiful castle, we reached Salumificio “La Perla” near Langhirano. This family-run prosciutto producer welcomes visitors, offering a glimpse into the fascinating process of how prosciutto is made. The air-cured legs, hanging in mountain curing rooms, were another testament to the region’s rich culinary heritage. We enjoyed a taster of thinly shaved prosciutto, local cheeses, and of course, Parmigiano Reggiano!
Sadly, we didn’t have enough time to explore Parma, but we’d love to return and see more. Following our guide’s recommendation, we enjoyed lunch at Trattoria Del Tribunale, a traditional old trattoria in the town center. We tried the torta fritta with mortedella and capeletti in brodo, washed down with a refreshing jug of Lambrusco.
Our culinary exploration continued in Bologna, a short train ride away from Modena. We began our epic food tour in the iconic Piazza Maggiore, marveling at the Basilica di San Petronio, a grand structure despite its incomplete facade, and soaking in the lively atmosphere. My head was quite literally spinning, unsure where to look as we wandered through the narrow streets filled with vibrant displays of fresh produce, enticing aromas wafting from delis overflowing with mortadella and local cheeses, and the sight of trays upon trays of glistening, handmade pasta.
We indulged in warm tigelle, generously spread with the pesto bolognese, a mixture of chopped pork lard, rosemary, garlic and a generous sprinkling of Parmigiano Reggiano. Delicious! Our tour continued to Bologna’s oldest osteria, where we gathered around a communal table in a fascinating space adorned with walls lined with memorabilia of past patrons and other nostalgic bits. While these osterias traditionally functioned as places to gather and socialize, with patrons bringing their own food, some may now offer a selection of dishes you can order alongside drinks from the bar. The feast that followed was a true celebration of Bolognese cuisine: creamy squacquerone cheese, melt-in-your-mouth mortadella, warm crescentine, some more meats and cheeses all washed down with a glass of local white Pignoletto.
All before our lunch of delicate tortellini in brodo and the classic tagliatelle with ragù Bolognese, all washed down with refreshing Lambrusco. Mission complete as far as my husband was concerned, Bolognese enjoyed in Bologna! We ended our tour with our knowledgeable guide after a quick stop for a creamy fior di latte and pistachio gelato. We learnt so much from our guide and definitely need to return to explore even more of this captivating city.
The perfect way to end our Bolognese adventure was a visit to Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo, a sixth-generation family business claiming the title of Bologna’s oldest kitchenware store. This historic shop has been operating in the Mercato di Mezzo since 1783.
And sadly, that brought our time in Emilia-Romagna to a close. We felt like we had only scratched the surface of this incredible culinary world. It was inspiring to learn about age-old traditions that continue to thrive, despite the hardships faced by farmers and the challenges overcome by business owners keeping them alive. Emilia-Romagna is definitely a region worth revisiting!
